View Full Version : PH Problem
May 1st-2004, 04:13 PM
Hi, Okay my ph was 6.5, and I was told by some people that it was too low for Guppies and I should raise it. So I went to my local lfs and asked for some advice on how to do it. I said people said to use coral to do it and they told me that I should use ph up but only use a dose of half of what the bottle says. So they gave me a bottle of phup and it said half a teaspoon for 10 gallons, so I used a quarter per ten gallons. My ph went from 6.5 to 6.7 and waited 24 hrs. (I only used it once). I emailed Dr Foster & Smith, another web page where the host gives advice to people on care of fish, and to a guppy breeder. All 3 replied and said that guppies can live in ph levels betwen 5.5-8.6, as long as it is consistent. Sadly, since I adjusted the PH in all my tanks, I have lost about 12 gups altogether, and now some gups have a whitish film to them and I think more gups will pass on. I believe it is due to ph shock. The Guppies that I have had for 2 month's are fine, so I am going to leave the ph where it is. I do not know enough of how to use coral to raise ph, without someone giving me exact instructions on what to buy and how much to use and how to maintain it. Now I had to start all over with one of my tanks and i am doing a fishless cycle. I had 20 fish in there when I left yesterday morning at 8:30, and when I got home at 12:30 half were dead. So I put the others in another tank and starting over. Now I filled the tank up at 2:00 and took the ph at 10:00 last night and ph was 7.8. So now I think it may be my water conditioner I am using. I was using Amquel Plus and in the one I am starting over I used a different one. I will retest the water this afternoon. So now my dilemma is that if it was the conditioner now what do I do? If I change the water conditioner in my other tanks, then the ph will go up. Maybe if I change 2% of the water each day, or do I just keep using the same water conditioner seeing I had no major problems. So the scratching must have been someting else, not due to low ph. If I sound totally confused it is because I am.
May 1st-2004, 06:29 PM
So sorry to hear of your losses. Just a word of caution....you never overdose pH up....even under instructions of "knowledgeable" pet store people.
The people on the other board were right, guppies can get used to a wide range of water conditions (even heard of them being acclimated to a completely marine environment along with mollies), however, it takes time for them to do so (a long time....like several months) and if they do give birth in the extreme water conditions, the babies will be much more tolerant of it and it will become "normal" for them.
Before I get into raising pH, how do you normally do your water changes? and how many gals of water do you need for your various tanks? I'm asking this because I have found a method of using oyster shells that doesn't require the shells to be present in the tank, but rather in a vat where you "age" the water. I have such a system for my own needs and since I still had to lower pH, I put the peat directly into my water aging vat and that way it doesn't have to be put into the tank. I didn't relish the idea of having to take everything apart just so I can add peat underneath my substrate.
May 1st-2004, 06:39 PM
Ok, I have 4 tanks. I have 2 29's and 2 10's. I change about 20-25% of the water each week. I use the python method. Before I put water into my tanks I do 2 things. I put the water conditioner in as the water is going into the tank and then ( I do this first) I take the temp of the tank with a digital thermomerter and then match it under the faucet. When the temp coming out of the faucet matches the tank temp, I fill the tank up. Now that explains why the guppies I had for a couple of month's were fine, they got accustomed to it. My original question was that they showed no white spots at all, but sometimes were scratching against certain objects. Maybe it was that the fish were getting accustomed to the new ph level. Also there are a couple of babies that were born in that tank that are doing just fine. I guess that somehow when I add new fish I better take hours between the time I float the bag and the time I put them in the tank.
May 1st-2004, 07:34 PM
After I talked with you earlier in the week, I was hunting around for a method of lowering my own pH somewhat, and I think this method would work for you as well in the reverse. I was told to "age" the water for my tanks and make the adjustments in the holding vat instead of in the tank. So, I went and did a bit of research on how to "age" the water properly and here's what I found:
I needed the following stuff:
1. A large capacity vat (I went to a local wine making place and got a food safe 20 gal plastic vat with a lid) that can accommodate all the water I need for at least one water change. In my case, the 20 gal vat accommodates 2 water changes for my 2 10 gals and 1 20 gal tanks. I bought a bigger vat because I knew I was going to have more tanks up and running. In Canada, that vat cost me about $23.00.
2. A thicker (1/2" diameter is what I ended up getting) clear plastic hose (enough length to reach the tanks...in my case it's about 12 feet long), a valve to regulate the water flow and a hose clamp to attach the valve to one end of the clear plastic hose. The hose and the valve and the clamp cost me another $15.00.
To put it all together, I put my clean vat on top of my fish bench so I could use gravity to fill up the tanks. Then I lay down a thick pad of peat in the bottom of the vat and put a layer of gravel on it so it stays put. Then I filled up the vat with water and let it sit like that for a week. At the end of the week before I was ready to do the water change, I weighted down the one end of the plastic hose so it remains on the bottom of the tank, but not low enough to suck up the gravel and the peat. Then I attached the valve to control the water flow.
Once this was done, I opened the valve and immersed the whole hose up to the valve in the tank so all the coils get filled with water, then closed the valve so the water stays in the hose, and then whenever I just wanted to do a water change, I would just siphon the water from all tanks at once and then fill them all up at the same time. I also have a submersible heater in the vat too, so the day before I do the water change, I just turn on the heater so it matches the temp of the water in the tanks, and that's it. Oh...and after the water change, I just top up the vat with my garden hose and let the new water "age" until the next water change. This method works well for me and I can do water changes now in less than 20 minutes (of course, it NEVER takes that long, because I find other things to do...like cutting back vegetation and just looking at the fish :D ).
In your case, what you need to do is something similar to my setup except you put a bag or two of crushed coral on the bottom instead of peat and gravel.
Hope this helps.... :)
May 1st-2004, 07:39 PM
Thank you Edith, I have an empty 20 gal tank that I could use
May 1st-2004, 07:48 PM
No problem...just one thing more...if you age your water this way, you don't need water conditioners.